I use Goatcounter on this digital garden (served through Hugo) and on my personal website (served with Jekyll), having disabled Google Analytics on my personal site in 2021 after 7 years.
Depending on your theme, find the Hugo partial that is loaded on each page (probably it is called `header.html` or something similar) and add the Goatcounter script.
Again, just add the Goatcounter script to a HTML template you know will be loaded into every page of your site.
Mt. Solitary #
The Goatcounter dashboard for Mt. Solitary is publicly available here.